How to get the total row count?

Put the $V{REPORT_COUNT} in the detail section of your report along with your other fields.

It will display the values in sequence as you mentioned in your question.

1. create a variable drag and drop
2. in the detail section right click on the item
3. click on edit expressions
4. in fx variables you will see REPORT_COUNT

Use the built-in variable iReport $V{REPORT_COUNT}.

Also, if you're interested in the final value, set the text field's evaluation time to "Report".