What's the point of OOP?

The real world isn't "OO", and the idea implicit in OO--that we can model things with some class taxonomy--seems to me very fundamentally flawed

While this is true and has been observed by other people (take Stepanov, inventor of the STL), the rest is nonsense. OOP may be flawed and it certainly is no silver bullet but it makes large-scale applications much simpler because it's a great way to reduce dependencies. Of course, this is only true for “good” OOP design. Sloppy design won't give any advantage. But good, decoupled design can be modelled very well using OOP and not well using other techniques.

There are much better, more universal models (Haskell's type model comes to mind) but these are also often more complicated and/or difficult to implement efficiently. OOP is a good trade-off between extremes.

OOP isn't about creating re-usable classes, its about creating Usable classes.

All too often, the class is used simply for its syntactic sugar; it puts the functions for a record type into their own little namespace.

Yes, I find this to be too prevalent as well. This is not Object Oriented Programming. It's Object Based Programming and data centric programing. In my 10 years of working with OO Languages, I see people mostly doing Object Based Programming. OBP breaks down very quickly IMHO since you are essentially getting the worst of both words: 1) Procedural programming without adhering to proven structured programming methodology and 2) OOP without adhering to to proven OOP methodology.

OOP done right is a beautiful thing. It makes very difficult problems easy to solve, and to the uninitiated (not trying to sound pompous there), it can almost seem like magic. That being said, OOP is just one tool in the toolbox of programming methodologies. It is not the be all end all methodology. It just happens to suit large business applications well.

Most developers who work in OOP languages are utilizing examples of OOP done right in the frameworks and types that they use day-to-day, but they just aren't aware of it. Here are some very simple examples: ADO.NET, Hibernate/NHibernate, Logging Frameworks, various language collection types, the ASP.NET stack, The JSP stack etc... These are all things that heavily rely on OOP in their codebases.