Which elements can be safely made contenteditable?

In my opinion, I'd say div is the safest bet across the board. Any element you wish to truly edit (be it a span, header, etc), you can place inside the div and edit as if it were just that element. Also, to account for the display:inline issue you mentioned, you could always use float:left or float:right on your editable div to give it an "inline feel" without having it actually be inline.

Hope that helps!