Which purchasable houses have access to alchemy / enchanting / smithy / cooking?

Every home except for the house in Whiterun has an Enchanting Table upgrade availiable, as well as the option to procure Alchemical facilities.

If you want a home with a Smithy, you must have the Hearthfire DLC installed. This allows you to buy land and build a house in 3 holds: Falkreath, Morthal, and Danwstar. There you can build your own smithy. Other than that, there are no houses with forges in vanilla Skyrim. Riften and Whiterun offer the most convenient access to forge facilities, though Riften's forge lacks Smelting equipment.

It seems that every other house has an enchanting table upgrade available for it. The cheapest of these are for 8000g in Markarth or Riften.

It would appear, however, that Alchemy, Enchanting, and Cooking are the only crafting stations available in any house. You'll still need to find a blacksmith for everything else.

See Skyrim Houses wiki for more details.